"We need transparency in the world" was Italo Zucchelli's summation of his latest menswear collection for Calvin Klein. That could be the manifesto of more than one designer in Milan this week, but Zucchelli pushed the idea into otherworldly territory. He is the futurist of men's fashion, a Trojan horse, really, because he is using the umbrella of America's archetypal sportswear label to advance a vision of the way that men might ideally dress in a parallel universe. The twist in Zucchelli's tale is that, perfect though these creatures might be, they are not necessarily comfortable with what their future holds, hence mannequins who looked as awkward on the catwalk as could be expected after a thousand-year journey from another galaxy. At least Zucchelli gave them a wardrobe to wear when they landed. It's the designer's peculiar talent to warp familiar sartorial elements into something alien. This time, translucence was the key. The opening outfit set the tone: a transparent onyx parka over Lycra shorts, in keeping with what has become the Zucchelli tradition of extreme sportswear. (The same idea was reiterated in sleeveless tops that looked like workoutwear for the Total Recall crew.) The see-through theme evolved into a honeycomb mesh cardigan, a black net jacket, or a ribbed blouson in sheer silver-gray. The sheen on a gray techno-fabric suit made one think of reflected starlight. For another suit, Zucchelli used the iridescent material the English call "tonic." It's a ...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O9SUDvfOM8k&hl=en
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